Vancouver, CA, February 14--Mold infestation in a new home or commercial building is common. The mold problem can cause severe health problems for occupants as well as substantially reduce the fair market value of the structure because moldy homes and buildings are now more difficult to sell or rent.
To build a mold-safe house or commercial building, follow these 10 mold prevention recommendations from Phillip Fry, Certified Mold Inspector, Certified Mold Remediator, and author of the mold advice book Do-It-Best-Yourself Mold Prevention, Inspection, Testing, and Remediation.
1. Prior to blueprint drafting, obtain the advice and suggestions of a mold prevention consultant to include the most effective water intrusion and mold prevention strategies in building design, selection of building materials, and construction techniques. "The key to mold control is moisture control," advises the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA).
2. Make sure that the building lot and its landscaping grading are downward and away from the building to keep rain and surface water from entering the building foundations, basement walls, concrete floors, and crawl space areas.
3. Install a thick, high quality moisture barrier (with no holes from negligent installation) beneath any concrete floor slab or basement concrete floor to stop water from wicking up from the ground into the concrete, and thus into flooring materials and walls resting on the wet concrete.
Do not use regular plastic sheeting as a moisture barrier because such sheeting is easily damaged in installation, and it usually suffers physical degradation over time---thus allowing water penetration into the concrete.
4. Add adequate amounts of top-quality waterproofing compound into the concrete mix to transform the entire concrete floor or slab into an effective water barrier. Also, thoroughly waterproof the exterior of basement walls and of the building foundations.
5. Dry thoroughly (30 days) the concrete floors and concrete/masonry walls prior to adding wood building components. New concrete holds thousands of pounds of water. Most of this water usually dries to the inside of the house or building if the wood building components are installed prior to complete concrete drying, according to the Nova Scotia (Canada) Department of Energy.
6. Do not install plumbing supply lines into concrete slabs or floors, wherein the lines usually degrade and start leaking in twenty years or less. Hire the most capable plumber to install the best quality plumbing lines, fittings, and equipment.
Concentrate all plumbing lines and sewer drain lines in as few areas as possible, with large, easy access panels for the monitoring, maintenance, and repair of plumbing components.
7. Minimize the potential for water damage from frozen, broken pipes by insulating water supply lines (in the attic, crawlspaces, garage, and exterior walls), protecting exposed outdoor faucets, and sealing gaps in exterior walls.
8. Use a hidden moisture meter to scan the ceilings, walls, and floors of all plumbing areas for water leaks prior to building occupancy, and on a regular basis thereafter.
9. Use steel framing components instead of wood [delicious food for mold growth to build the walls, second floor, attic, and roof of the building. Although steel framing is a little more expensive than wood, it is very affordable long-term, especially in consideration of steel’s water damage and mold prevention qualities, as well as fire resistance.
10. Alternatively, build the walls out of poured concrete, concrete blocks, or insulated concrete building components. Use adequate amounts of waterproofing compound in both the concrete and in cement stucco interior and exterior finishes.
